First select a mainboard for the computer, and the various peripherals
you would like, and a metal box of the right size to house it.
Here I am choosing a
TME-INC (made in Toronto, Canada)
main board because it has onboard SCSI
for my high resolution wearable camera system, which operates over the SCSI
channel. This camera system provides images of resolution 3072x2048
pixels, which are processed using the
VideoOrbits method, to give
higher (e.g. 10,000 pixels across or so) resolution composites, so that
pictures taken with the apparatus can exceed the resolution possible
with photographic film (e.g. even when large format films are used).
The system has four 18 gigabyte hard drives, giving it 72 gigabytes of
storage, and, with striping across multiple hard drives in an array,
may provide high speed writes. Two RAM slots provide 512 megabytes of
RAM, which is useful to buffer the pictures during processing.
I put together a number of different kinds of systems, some smaller,
for smaller images (e.g. 640x480 image capture, etc.) and some larger
(e.g. for larger image capture, processing, etc.).
This particular computer system described here
is not a joke, so if you're interested in packing
serious heat, read on!
The entire system fits inside a Mountainsmith belly bag
called a ``TOUR PACK''
(the smaller of the two main belly bag sizes offered by Mountainsmith,
e.g. not the larger one that is called a ``DAY PACK'').
I chose a soft iron housing, rather than an aluminum housing, in order
to have better shielding (e.g. shielding from magnetic fields as well as
electric fields).
The first step is to drill the holes for the mounting of the components.
I begin by marking out a piece of cardboard (drawing the outline of the
mainboard on it) and making markings on the cardboard where the holes are to
be ultimately drilled in the metal housing:
marking cardboard
marked cardboard
Once I have marked the cardboard, I cut out the cardboard:
cutting cardboard
Now I have a piece of cardboard that is the same size as the mainboard,
and I can position the cardboard in the metal housing I have chosen, and
I can now position the other components around the mainboard, and experiment
with positioning of these components without risking damage to the mainboard.
The cardboard therefore acts as a surrogate mainboard in the planning stages,
and I can feel free to use a nail or punch to mark the metal housing, using
the mainboard as a template. One must be certain to also plan for all the
cabling and wiring into and out of the metal cabinet.
For example, the SCSI cabling is 68 pin SCSI, very delicate ribbon cable,
so it must be brought out carefully. Once all the planning stages
are complete, and I have marked all the hole locations, I begin with a
punch, to punch reference marks for the drill, so that the drill will later
not slip out of place. I use a hammer to make the reference marks with the
punch:
punch
Next I drill small marker pilots. I don't drill all the way through
because I don't want to get any metal shavings on the workbench:
drill
Once I have lightly drilled the marker pilots, approximately halfway
through the metal, I then take it outside into the hallway, away from
the workbench, and drill all the way through:
drilling
If the weather is nice, I sometimes also do this outside, since the drill
is battery powered. After all of the drilling, I file down the edges of
the housing, so there are no sharp edges (most project cases, hobby cases,
and various other metal boxes have sharp edges, and I prefer to file these
down so that I don't cut myself on the metal as I am working on the system.
Since it is an experimental system, it will often no doubt find itself
being operated while opened up.) Also, I file down all the burrs and rough
metal edges created by drilling the holes.
DECON
It is very important to thoroughly decon (decontaminate) the metal housing,
to make sure all the metal filings are cleared away. Even just a small
metal shaving, or metal dust, can short out the circuits inside the computer.
Therefore, I take extra precaution with the decon. Every building complex
has its best and worst faucets, and I have found that the rightmost faucet
in Sandford Fleming building, room 2107, is what I believe to be
the best in the building.
For some reason it doesn't have a flow restrictor on it. In today's world
of restricted faucets, showers, and the like, a high pressure faucet is
worth making not of, if you ever find one. Preferably this should be away
from the work area. I also need to be careful not to splash my other
rig (the one I am wearing to documented the assembly of this rig).
After this light decon, I'll peel down and do some serious decon:
decon
After serious decon, comes drying time. In the drying area, I prefer to use
paper towels and scrub thoroughly, in case there are any particles of metal
dust that might have been harboured by the metal housing:
dry
Small inaccessable areas of the housing can still harbour contaminants.
Careful decon is therefore strongly recommended.
Next page Modifications, Power Supply and Finishing Page 2
Previous Articles